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Acne

What is Acne?

Acne is one of the most common skin conditions, affecting both males and females at different stages of life. It develops when hair follicles become clogged with oil (sebum), dead skin cells, and bacteria, leading to blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, or deeper nodules and cysts. Acne often appears on the face, back, chest, and shoulders, and can significantly affect self-confidence and quality of life if untreated.

  • Excess oil production (androgens in both men and women stimulate oil glands).
  • Hormonal changes – menstrual cycles, pregnancy, and menopause for women; consistently higher androgen levels in men that often cause more severe, persistent acne.
  • Genetics – a family history increases risk.
  • Lifestyle and environment – diet, stress, poor sleep, skincare, and shaving irritation in men.
  • Bacteria (C. acnes) – thrives in clogged pores and worsens inflammation.

For Females

1. Topical-only therapy (mild acne):

  • Morning: benzoyl peroxide + clindamycin.
  • Evening: retinoid (e.g., tretinoin, adapalene) +/- Winlevi/Aklief.
  • Works for minimal acne, but requires ongoing maintenance.

2. Topicals + Spironolactone (hormonal acne):

  • Spironolactone reduces androgen effects, lowering oil production.
  • Effective for jawline, chin, and cycle-related acne.
  • Requires monitoring for potassium levels; recurrence if stopped.

3. Bridge Therapy or Micro-Dosed Accutane (Isotretinoin):

  • The only treatment that can permanently “cure” most acne.
  • Uses a phased approach: prepping with topicals, managing side effects during treatment, then maintaining results post-therapy.
  • Requires monthly pregnancy tests due to teratogenic risks.

For Males

1. Topical therapy (mild acne):

  • Morning: benzoyl peroxide + clindamycin.
  • Evening: retinoid +/- Winlevi.

2. Micro-Dosed Accutane (Isotretinoin):

  • Recommended for severe or recurrent acne.
  • Taken daily in small doses (10–40 mg, often 20 mg).
  • Achieve 120–150 mg/kg cumulative dose with goal of 2 months clear.
  • Provides ~80% long-term remission, compared to 20–40% with older high-dose regimens.
  • Lower side effects than traditional dosing; safe for athletes and active men.

3. Antibiotics:

  • Used only short-term (≤3 months).

  • Topicals: Improvement in 6–8 weeks, maintenance required.
  • Spironolactone: 4–6 weeks for noticeable results, recurrence if discontinued.
  • Accutane: Gradual but often permanent remission, with recurrence rate only ~20%.

  1. Can acne be cured? – Only Accutane offers a long-term cure in most patients.
  2. Why is acne worse in men? – Higher androgen levels drive more severe and persistent breakouts.
  3. Is Accutane safe for athletes? – Yes, micro-dosing reduces side effects and doesn’t impact testosterone or muscle growth.
At a Glance

Dr. Amit Mittal

  • Medical degree from Yale School of Medicine
  • Board-certified dermatologist
  • Founder and director of Mittal Dermatology
  • Learn more

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